A late summer’s evening in Düsseldorf in 1973 at the apartment of the modernist architect, Paul Schneider Esleben. The balcony doors are open, letting the gentle sounds of the party – the talk and laughter and clinking of glasses – out into the dusk to hang in the air before settling down onto the streetlights below. Paul’s wife, Evamaria, makes her way around the room, which includes furniture that Paul has designed, ensuring that everyone has a drink and someone to talk to.
For myself, I am trying to keep to the periphery. Paul wrote to me a few weeks ago at the University of Fine Arts in Hamburg, from which he resigned as a professor only last year, inviting me to this soirée, which surprised me as I only knew him in passing at the university. The letter was charming, although at first it appeared to be nothing more than a note encouraging me to persist in my studies but it concluded with an invitation to travel for tonight’s gathering.
I was flattered, of course, although a little anxious, too. I am well used to the university scene and I attend faculty parties in the baggy suits for which I have become well-known but I am not so sure this look will be appropriate for an evening at the home of the home of the lauded architect of the Cologne Bonn Airport. I even thought about cutting my hair!
In the end, I board the train in Hamburg, wearing an older suit that is a more traditional fit and relatively unworn. I have eschewed a tie – although there is one in my small, leather suitcase – but I have taken care to iron a new shirt. My hair is clean, brushed and tied back. I look almost respectable as I take my seat for the afternoon’s journey to Düsseldorf.
Upon arriving, it is two hours until the party starts and I have decided to be punctual rather than late (and definitely not early). I find my little hotel, just near the station, where I pay for my room and deposit my suitcase before setting out to find something to eat. I end up in a small bar, half a kilometre from the Eslebens’ apartment, where I eat some cake and enjoy a coffee, before treating myself to a glass of beer.
At twenty past seven, I go to the restroom to check myself in the mirror and then I set off to the party. As I approach, I notice how the roads have widened and the buildings have detached from one another. The railings enclose well-tended gardens in front of large wooden doors and tall windows. Sometimes, within, I see smartly dressed men and elegant women, ready for an evening at the opera or, perhaps, a party at the home of a highly respected architect.
And here I am an hour later, nursing the beer that Evamaria provided to me, half-hoping, half-dreading that someone is going to speak to me. The room, it must be said, is full of people whom I would love to get to know; it is a crowd of which I would aspire to be a part. But, whilst invited, I feel like I don’t belong, like a child at a wedding.
I am not sure how Evamaria manages to materialise at my elbow but suddenly there she is, accompanied by a handsome young man who is grinning broadly at me. He wears neatly cut hair and is dressed in a suit and tie, and he looks every part the perfect product of his affluent family, with the exception of a large broach on his lapel in the form of a single musical note.
“Here, let me introduce you to my son, Florian”, she says.
“Hallo, Florian” I say, extending my hand. “How do you do?”
“Gut, danke. Und ihnen?” His eyes twinkle with merriment, yet there is a something a little reserved about him.
“Florian is in a musical group”, says his mother, “Along with his friend Ralf. Where is Ralf?”
“Ich schickte ihn, um sich die Haare schneiden zu lassen”, he replies whilst continuing to smile broadly at me. It’s impossible to take offence.
“You don’t approve of long hair”, I ask him, trying to match his friendly smile.
He shrugs. There is a moment’s pause.
Evamaria is not giving up. “Ralf and Florian have released some records, haven’t you, sweetheart?”
“Oh ja, drei oder vier.”
“You don’t know?” I try to joke but I feel that I am losing his attention. He looks at his watch, and then back up to me and gives me a nod and diffident smile. “Entschuldigang.”
He crosses the room to a small table, whose top swirls like a large comma. On it sits a large, black telephone, which Florian picks up. He carries it towards the door, looking back to ensure the lead doesn’t catch. He glances at his watch again and picks up the handpiece. The room is not so noisy but I didn’t hear it ring. The broad grin reappears on his face. I see his mouth move – “Ja, Ja” – before he replaces the handpiece onto the telephone.
He finds his mother and leans in to say something to her. I can see she is disappointed but he squeezes her arm and turns to make his way back to the door. Halfway across the room, he seems to remember me, and he turns and gives me the same shy smile and nod before he exits into the hallway. I take a step to my right, so I can still see him, and I watch as he puts on a large grey coat with black fur lapels. This is followed by a dark trilby and then a surprisingly red scarf. He moves towards the door and out of sight.
“Sekt?” Paul shares his wife’s ability to appear from thin air.
“Oh, yes, thank you.”
I put down my tired beer and accept the chilled glass from my host.
“I see you met Florian. I had hoped he would stay a little longer and perhaps introduce you to his friends.”
I’m not sure what to say to this – I feel I might have let my host down in some way – but it appears that he is not concerned about this after all.
He waves towards two free chairs, indicating that we should sit down. I ask if they are of his own design – although I already know that they are – but the great architect is not interested in talking about himself. We chat a little about the university in Hamburg and he inquires politely after a few mutual acquaintances.
Time passes and it dawns on me that the invitation here was not merely a whim but that he quite clearly wanted to see me again and to talk to me. He talks about being an artist and “the work”. I must apply myself he says. He tells me I am lucky – “Your instincts are so good, you can do eighty percent of the work in your first sitting” – but he has a serious message to deliver in person. “I never see the remaining twenty percent. Only five or maybe ten. To be good at what you do you must learn to finish.”
His words strike both my head and my heart for I know that he is right, that this is an absolute truth. I don’t know what to say but he looks into my eyes, half closing his own, and sees that I understand. “That’s good. Now, return to Hamburg and realise yourself.”
He doesn’t mean that I should leave immediately, of course, yet I promptly finish my drink and thank him. I stand to leave and Evamaria is there to tell me how pleased she is that I was able to come, and all the way from Hamburg, too. Paul shakes my hand and puts his hand on my shoulder. He looks pleased.
So it is not late when I emerge from their building, stepping out into the cooling but still warm night. I don’t hang around but walk away purposefully while I wonder what to do with what remains of my evening. Düsseldorf is new to me but there must be bars, a nightlife, perhaps some clubs in a downtown district, and, confident of that much at least, I retrace my footsteps from earlier in the evening.
It only takes three streets and as many corners for me to find the first of the bars and restaurants. Given the time, it is unsurprising that most of the restaurants are full but, following the noise and the lights, I eventually find a bar on the edge of a square. There are tables outside, full of people, with waiters gliding between them, but there is one small table with just two chairs at the edge, next to the rope bordering the dining area. Perfect.
I sit down and catch a waiter’s eye. Having had a couple of beers but also a glass of wine, I am unsure what to drink next but I end up ordering a small carafe of red wine as well as some bread and a plate of meats. I sip my wine as I wait for my food, enjoying what warmth is left in the day, and listening to the rise and fall of laugher and conversation around me. Düsseldorf, I must say, is more convivial than I expected.
My food has arrived and I am just topping up my wine when a large Mercedes comes around the edge of the square, then turns and parks without fuss on the opposite side of the road from me. I am surprised to see Florian emerge from the driver’s side. With him, climbing out of the passenger door, is another young man, bespectacled, with shoulder length hair and wearing a leather jacket. He is laughing at something Florian has said as they pulled up and I can see Florian smiling with the pleasure of amusing his friend.
As they start to walk away from the car, Florian glances across and sees me, sat at my table on the edge of the dining area. He raises his eyebrows and half opens his mouth, such that I can’t tell whether his surprise is completely genuine or exaggerated in part. He waves at me and his companion looks to see whom his friend knows. His face has become a study in cool reserve. I half raise the hand that is holding my wine glass in greeting and then worry that it looks as though I am making a mock toast but Florian has taken his companion by the arm and is already walking away.
They walk with insouciance into the road, cutting a corner off the square, to approach a door set between two shops. There is a small porch extending out over the doorway, partially obscuring a neon sign, and beneath it stands a man in a tuxedo. He smiles warmly at Florian and his friend as they approach, opening the door inwards and then stepping to one side. Florian appears to tip him as he enters.
I finish my food and the last of my wine, pay my bill, and step out onto the square. I walk along one side, looking at my reflection in the shop windows. It looks as though I am walking amongst the mannequins, which seem to move in the shifting headlights of the cars as they drive around the square. Suddenly, I wish I had worn my tie.
Turning at the corner, I am walking towards the doorway, and the doorman regards me levelly. “Good evening” he says in a manner whose polite lack of welcome encourages me to keep on walking and I do. A few paces past, I stop and half-turn, but the moment, if it was ever there at all, has certainly passed. And so I walk on.
As I pass the bars, first on the square and then on a street leading from it, the sound of music and voices spills through the doorways onto the pavement. None sounds like a place one would walk into alone but it is too soon to return to my hotel room and I carry on. The bars are less busy away from the square and I begin to wish I’d brought a book with me, so that I could find a table in the back corner of a room, and read whilst enjoying a drink. If I am honest, evenings such as that are the ones I enjoy the most back in Hamburg.
I carry on, though, and come to a smaller square in the centre of which is a modest statue of a woman in a long dress. In her right hand she is holding aloft a box with an orb at its centre. Intrigued, I cross the narrow road. I angle myself so that I can read the plaque by the light from a streetlamp but it is still too dark. Straightening up, I turn and find myself facing a café, which was behind me as I entered the square.
There is no one behind the bar, which runs along the wall on the left, but a young woman sits in the window to the right. There is a cup of coffee on the table next to her although she is busy sketching in a notebook. Her dark hair obscures her face but I watch mesmerised by the quick certain movements of her hand.
I don’t know how long I have been standing there when she sits back, her face framed beneath a heavy and dead straight fringe half an inch above her eyebrows. She looks out onto the square and I think that she is watching me. This goes on for just long enough that I am about to raise my hand in greeting, when she returns to her notebook and I realise that she was looking at her own reflection in the glass.
It is a perfect picture: the young woman alone in the café, the warm light from the lamps within extending barely into the darkness beyond the window. And then the bartender returns and I decide to go in, for this is not my history of meeting artists in Düsseldorf, but rather the story of how I met my wife.












