Happy Autumn, and welcome to the dark side of the year – for us northern hemisphere folks anyway 🙂 The last of the 90 degree days are almost past (we think) and it’s time to REALLY settle in with our hot bevvies and yarn craft, for it’s the crocheters and knitters season to shine.
Here are a few of my recent personal finished projects – the first two are non-crochet, as I have been trying to push myself out of my comfort zone and inspire myself by expanding my other fiber skills.
I apologize for the roughness of the photos in this post, they are all screencaps from my extremely old phone’s video recorder which was finally retired just a few days ago.
Felted Toadstool Jar
I don’t want to admit how long I’ve been holding on to this very unique little rounded jar with the intention of creating some kind of plush cap for the lid to make it a mushroom! The messy wet felting step was first and the most daunting, since it requires so much setup with hot soapy water, towels, and plastic to protect my floor. Once the neutral base was formed, I included lots of little color scraps on top left over from my yarn spinning, so that I had some options for caps. I chose the green (of course).
After wet felting came needle felting for textural accents. Then some embroidery doodling to top it off, before gathering my wool circle into a ball shape to stuff it. I didn’t capture the gluing step very well, but it was glued to the rim of the jar lid and then sewn extra tight around the edge for good measure. What shall I keep in it? Yarn, probably.
Ballerina Wrap Top
Last fall I cast on my first “real” knit sweater project, the Ballerina Wrap Top from Two of Wands. I’ve done simple rectangular knits for clothing items, but I’m still learning shaping when it comes to knitwear and this was a very good lesson.
Working this design in Lion Brand Nuboo bamboo rayon was somewhat torture because of how slippery and splitty the yarn itself was in my inexpert knitting hands, but I love the way that translated into the weight and drape of the sweater. Also, I thought it was going to be too small – turns out, it’s just a bit big! Go figure. Of course, the little fawn Acorn had to some into the pictures as well, since he was my previous knitting conquest that gave me the courage to try the sweater. Acorn is from the Fawn pattern by Claire Garland (@dotpebbles_knits on Instgram or here on Etsy)
Grandmother Poncho – free pattern & Beta Testing
This poncho started as a complete whim – all I wanted was to buy some colors of yarn I liked together and stitch something pretty much mindless and easy. I got more than I bargained for, even with the yarn on sale! Seven ponchos later, I honed this design into a made-to-measure crochet pattern that can be made in DK, worsted, or even bulky weight yarn while still retaining the subtle tailoring that turns this quaint and cozy piece into something a little more classy and chic.
The official pattern is going to be published for free here on the blog, but I thought I’d run it through a kind of Beta Test phase first, to make sure all the instructions are clear and successful. Be sure to subscribe to the blog so you get notified when this design debuts publicly here! 🙂
Freewheelin’ 2.0 – Tester Call coming soon!
Instagram friends will already know all about this one! I’ve been posting test drafts from the brand new version of the Freewheelin’ Poncho design which is underway. This design is a full decade old at this point, and it’s high time it received a makeover, especially considering it’s one of my VERY favorite of my own patterns to make.
I’m adding multiple sizes, more modification notes, an expanded collar option, and maybe a few little surprise tweaks from my personal back of tricks 🙂 The tester call for this pattern will be on Instagram exclusively, so please follow me @MoraleFiber and keep an eye out for the post!
The green version above is made in DK weight with the new expanded collar option, and I love the way the smaller gauge changes the look and drape of the fabric. Changing yarn weight will be much easier after the update is complete!
I’m so excited to announce the re-release of the Cobweb Wrap, now with full crochet charts for the entire pattern! In addition to the written text and photographs, each round is now meticulously and beautifully charted by Victoria of Under Your Skein – please check out her link to see all of her amazing work and follow her for tons of new patterns coming out this summer!
You can get the newest version of the Cobweb Wrap PDF crochet pattern through my Ravelry Store, Ko-Fi Shop, or Etsy Shop now 🙂 This design is on special sale for new purchasers through Ravelry and Ko-Fi only – get $2 off through Monday, no code needed. Keep reading for more details about the pattern below.
If you’ve previously purchased this pattern through Ravelry, look for the update e-mail or access the new version through your Ravelry library. Etsy users can direct message me with your preferred email address so I can send it manually – BUT you must DM me on Etsy through the account you bought the pattern with, or else I have no way of verifying the previous purchase🙂 Thanks for your patience on that! Ko-Fi users can also DM me through the account that made the purchase previously.
As delicate and gossamer as the silken threads that line the fields, the Cobweb Wrap is an impressive lace piece designed to be shown off!
The apparent intricacy belies the ease of a classic and simple lace pattern: the crochet pineapple. The popularity of this design over centuries is due to its accessibility – with just a few basic crochet stitches and a set of intuitive repeats, massive webs of beautiful lace can be woven easily.
Though named the pineapple, this design is a gorgeous geometric pattern that could be imagined many ways – peacock feathers, leaves, and even little creepy-cute spider bodies. The pattern is in detailed written format, with 75+ tutorial photos, universal crochet charts for every round, and a full video how-to for the hem (which you can access through the link included in the pattern).
This wearable lace piece is convertible from skirt to shawl/wrap, includes instructions for resizing the waist/opening for different yarns and gauges, with optional lengths of Short, Midi, and Long. My favorite special feature of this pattern is the Freestanding Pineapples technique, which creates a charming tattered silhouette that gives the wrap a romantic vintage feel.
Materials: 3.25 mm hook, 3.50 mm hook, 3.75 mm hook or 3 concurrent sizes needed to obtain desired gauge #5 Crochet Thread – (I used Artiste brand 100% Acrylic thread, in 370 yard cones) – 6 cones for the full skirt Scissors Tapestry needle Ribbon yarn or some kind of tie for drawstring
Sizes: Short, Midi, Long
Finished Measurements: ~60″ Top Opening, Up to ~32″ (Long). Modification instructions for altering the Top Opening size included.
All instructions are written in English, in US terminology.
The latest version of the Cobweb (the multicolor pictured below) is a skirt exclusively, as I had modified the top opening to reduce the size for a fitted waist and hip – making it not wide enough to wear as a big shawl – because I only had a skein of the desired yarn color! And I still ran out of yarn, haha!
Luckily I had some scraps from different skeins of the same type which paired beautifully in color, and was able to just squeak by in finishing the freestanding pineapple hem. That was truly grueling session of yarn chicken, let me tell you! I used 1 full cake of Hobbii Twister plus some bonus scraps, and I made the waist 40″ to fit over my hips. The length of this one follows the “Short” instructions as far as how many of the pineapple tiers to make, but since I added on the Freestanding Pineapples at the hem, it is equivalent to the Midi length.
I’ve always said, the twirling is the No.1 best part of this job 😉
There’s such a refreshing trend happening right now – offline chic, No Buys, and analog bags everywhere I click! People have become oversaturated with scrolling constantly and being exposed to all sorts of ads, sales pitches, and anxiety-inducing news and gossip, that a mass movement has developed to re-focus our lives away from the screen and back to real life.
I completely commiserate, even (or especially) as a person who makes my income by selling things online. The past 4-5 years have been a real struggle for me as I try to stay capable as a small business without spending every waking second juggling social media platforms! I’m a pen and paper gal who learned crochet from old magazines and books and spent my childhood summers flipping pages in my parent’s hammock – so I recognize the difference that unplugging can make for your state of mind.
In celebration and honor of this movement to spend more time away from screens and spend less of our hard-earned money supporting unethical corporations who want all of our time and attention (AND MONEY) I am publishing a free version of the Journee Bag right here on the blog today!
This bag was designed to hold my books and journals, so it has a comfortable cross-body style with a wide strap (length and width are customizable) and its pretty multi-color stripe design make it a wonderful scrap-buster – so you don’t have to spend more of your money on yarn! Unless you want to. We don’t judge about yarn here. Plus, with sturdy single crochet and simple instructions with plenty of pictures for the tough parts, it’s an easy all-level pattern for people who are just dipping their toes in crochet as their analog hobby of choice. Ok so let’s get to it!!
If you end up loving this pattern and want to support my art, there is a PDF version of this pattern available for purchase in my Ravelry, Ko-Fi and Etsy pattern shops 🙂
Materials
3.5 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Lion Brand 24/7 cotton (#4 weight, 100% mercerized cotton, 3.5 oz / 186 yd) – Café au lait: 2 skeins, Main Color – Dragonfly: less than (<) half a skein, Color 1 – Purple: < half a skein, Color 2 – Magenta: < half a skein, Color 3 – Rose: < half a skein, Color 4 – Bay Leaf: < half a skein, Color 5 – Hay Bale: < half a skein, Color 6 – Amber: < half a skein, Color 7
Yarn note: Some color amounts are very small and can be skipped/substituted if you want to reduce the number of skeins you have to buy. This pattern is also good for using small scraps of worsted weight yarn.
Scissors, tapestry needle 4-6 Locking stitch markers .5” – .75” button (optional) – be sure your tapestry needle can fit inside the hole/s in the button!
Gauge: 10 sts and 11 rows = 2” in sc While gauge isn’t completely critical, you want your stitches to be tight enough to form a firm fabric so things don’t fall out!
Finished Measurements (approximate): Main Body Width – 12” Main Body Length – 12” Strap Length: ~ 20”- 25” – notes for altering the length of strap are included in the instructions
Stitches & Abbreviations
Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc) Slip Stitch (sl st) Single Crochet decrease (Sc2tog)
Main Color (mc) Place Marker (pm) Round (rnd) Stitch/es (st/s) Each (ea)
Notes:
Ch-1 at the beginning of the round does not count as the first stitch.
For some color changes, the beginning stitch is moved to the left by a few stitches to keep the joining seam from shifting away from the side edge of the bag. The amount of stitches moved can be altered if you find that your tension doesn’t require moving as many spaces, or needs to move more spaces, to maintain the seam line. Right-handed crocheters will move to the left of the previous join, and left-handed crocheters move to the right.
Instructions
To begin, ch 41 with Main Color (MC) – fig 1.
Fig.1
Round 1: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (first ch st does not count as first sc) – fig 2. Place marker in the 1st sc just made. Sc in ea of the next 38 sts. 3 sc in the next st, rotate – fig 3 – place marker (pm) in the 1st and 3rd sc of the increase just made. Sc in ea of the next 38 sts, working into the back loops of the initial chain sts – fig 4. 2 sc in the final st, join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. Place marker (pm) in the 1st sc just made – fig 5. – 82 sts
Fig. 2Fig. 3Fig. 4Fig. 5
The stitch markers now designate the increase points for the bottom of the bag. Each marked stitch will get 3 sc worked into it as described in the written pattern following. Each time you place 3 sc in 1 of the marked sc stitches of the round below, move the marker up to your current row, placing in the 2nd of the 3 sc stitchesmade at the increase. The new marked stitch will be your increase point for the next round.
Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc). 3 sc in the same st, pm in 2nd sc – fig 6. 1 sc in ea of the next 38 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in 2nd sc. 1 sc in the next st – fig 7. 3 sc in the next st, pm in 2nd sc – fig 8. 1 sc in the next 38 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in the next st, sl st in the first sc of the round – fig 9. – 90 sts
Fig. 6Fig. 7Fig. 8 Fig. 9
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 3 sc in the next st, pm in 2nd sc – fig 10. 1 sc in ea of the next 40 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 40 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. Sl st to the first sc of the rnd to join – fig 11. – 98 sts
Fig. 10Fig. 11
Rnd 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in the next st. 3 sc in the next st, pm in 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 42 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 42 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. Sl st to the first sc of the rnd to join – fig 12. – 106 sts
Fig. 12
Rnd 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 2 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 44 sts. 3 sc in the next sc, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 7 sts. 3 sc in the next sc, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 44 sts. 3 sc in the next sc, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd – fig 13. – 114 sts
Fig. 13
Rnd 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as join, 1 sc in ea of the next 3 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 46 sts. 3 sc in the next sc, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 9 sts. 3 sc in the next sc, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 46 sts. 3 sc in the next st, pm in the 2nd sc. 1 sc in ea of the next 5 sts, join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 122 sts
The next round only creates increases of 2 sc per increase point – and we will remove the markers instead of moving them. If you wanted to make a wider tote bag, you could add extra rounds here, making continuing to make 3-st increases at the corners.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st as join. 1 sc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 sc in the next st, remove marker – fig 14. 1 sc in ea of the next 48 sts. 2 sc in the next st, remove marker. 1 sc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 sc in the next st, remove marker. 1 sc in ea of the next 48 sts. 2 sc in the next st, remove marker. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Join with a sl st in the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnd 8: Ch 1. 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 125 sts. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sc
Rnds 9 – 11: Repeat Round 8.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 1 3 stitches to the left of the join (go to the right of the join if you are left-handed).
Rnd 12: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. – 126 sts
Rnds 13-16: Repeat Rnd 12 – fig 16.
Fig. 16
Cut yarn and tie off. Join MC in same st as previous join.
Rnd 17: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnd 18: Rpt Rnd 17.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 2 in same st as previous join.
Rnd 19: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 20-22: Rpt Rnd 19 – figs 17-18.
Fig. 17Fig. 18
Cut yarn and tie off. Join MC in the same st as previous join.
Rnd 23: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 24-25: Rpt Rnd 23.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 3 in the stitch 3 sts left of the join (or to the right if you are left-handed).
Rnd 26: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnd 27: Rpt Rnd 26
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 4 in the same st as previous join.
Rnd 28: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 29-31: Rpt Rnd 27 – figs 19-20.
Fig. 19 – completed through Rnd 31Fig. 20
Cut yarn and tie off. Join MC 3 sts to the left of the previous join (to the right if you’re left-handed).
Rnd 32: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 33-34: Rpt Rnd 32
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 1 in same st as previous join.
Rnd 35: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnd 36: Rpt Rnd 35.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 5 in the same st as previous join.
Rnd 37: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts.
Rnds 38-40: Rpt Rnd 37 – figs 21-22.
Fig. 21 – completed through Rnd 40Fig. 22
Cut yarn and tie off. Join MC in same st as previous join.
Rnd 41: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 42-44: Rpt Rnd 41.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 6 3 sts away from the previous join.
Rnd 45: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnd 46: Rpt Rnd 45.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 7 in the same st as the previous join.
Rnd 47: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 48-50: Rpt Rnd 47.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 3 in the same st as previous join.
Rnd 51: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. – 126 sts
Rnd 52: Rpt Rnd 51.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 4 3 sts away from the previous join.
Rnd 53: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts Rnds 54-55: Rpt Rnd 53 – figs 23-24.
Fig. 23 – completed through Rnd 55Fig. 24
Cut yarn and tie off. Join MC 2 sts away from previous join.
Rnd 56: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 57-59: Rpt Rnd 56.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join Color 2 in same st as previous join.
Rnd 60: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 61-62: Rpt Rnd 60.
Cut yarn and tie off. Join MC 2 sts away from previous join.
Rnd 63: Ch 1, 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the rnd. – 126 sts
Rnds 64-66: Rpt Rnd 63 – fig 25.
Cut yarn and tie off.
Fig. 25 – completed through Rnd 63
Strap Base
Lay the completed body of the bag on a flat surface as pictured in Fig. 25. Take two stitch markers and locate the stitch on the very edge of the bag fold. Count 15 stitches to the left of this point and place a stitch marker in the 15th st. Now go back to the initial stitch and count 15 stitches to the right (not counting the initial stitch), place marker in the 15th st – fig 26.
Fig. 26
This marks off a 30-stitch long portion of the bag, centered over the short end. Take 2 more markers and repeat for the opposite side.
Now our bag has 2 sections marked off containing 30 stitches each. This is where we will place our straps – fig 27.
Fig. 27
Join MC in the marked stitch at the edge of one of the 30-stitch sections so that you are working into the marked-off section on the short ends.
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as first sc). 1 sc in the same st. 1 sc in ea of the next 29 sts – fig 28. – 30 sts
Fig. 28
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 26 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 28 sts
Note: For shorter strap base, skip the odd-numbered rows between decreasing (even-numbered) rows in the rest of the Strap Base section.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 28 sts
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 24 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 26 sts
Fig. 29
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 26 sts
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 22 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 24 sts
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. -24 sts
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 20 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 22 sts
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 22 sts
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 18 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 20 sts
Row 11: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 20 sts
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 16 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 18 sts
Row 13: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 18 sts
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 14 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 16 sts
Row 15: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 16 sts
Row 16: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 12 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 14 sts
Row 17: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 14 sts
Row 18: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 10 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 12 sts
Row 19: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 12 sts
Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tgo over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 8 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 10 sts
Row 21: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across. – 10 sts
For a wider strap, skip Row 22 so that Rows 23-112 have 10 total sts each.
Row 22: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog over the first 2 sts. 1 sc in ea of the next 6 sts. Sc2tog over the last 2 sts. – 8 sts
Row 23: Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in ea st across – figs 30-31. – 8 sts
Fig. 30 – strap base completed (long version)Fig. 31
Strap
Note: For shorter straps, skip 10 rows in the next section. You can skip more as desired to make it more of a handbag, too!
Rows 24-112: Rpt Row 23 – fig 32.
Fig. 32 – one side of the strap completed
Cut yarn and tie off. Repeat entire Strap instructions beginning at Row 1 for the marked off section on the other side of the bag. When completing the second side of the strap, leave a long yarn tail for sewing the seam when cutting & tying off – fig 33.
Fig. 33
Thread the long yarn tail through a tapestry needle and line up the two sides of the strap, taking care not to let them twist. Seam the two strap edges together using a whip stitch or a mattress stitch – fig 34.
Fig. 34
Finishing Edge & Fastening
Pick one side of the inner edge of the tote bag – the finishing edge works all the way around the top edge of the bag and strap, and then is repeated on the other side. One side will have a chain loop, the other will be left empty for the button. Loop & button fastening are optional.
Fig. 35
Loop Side
Finishing Round 1: Count 16 sts away from the edge of either strap onto the unworked long edge of the top of the bag. Join MC in this stitch, positioning the hook midway between the strap bases – positioned as in fig 35.
Work 1 sl st in ea of the next 16 sts. 1 sc into the side of each of the next 22 rows of the strap base – fig 36.
Fig. 36
Work 1 sc into the side of each of the 160 [180] rows of the strap (or however many rows you worked) – fig 37.
Note: The tension on this part can vary widely per individual. I found I had the best success if I skipped 1 row side every handful of stitches or so – otherwise the finishing edge tension was quite loose. You want it to be fairly tight so that the strap is not allowed to stretch too much when carrying actual weight. Slip stitching on the next row helps reinforce this, too. Test some tensions for yourself if you find your finishing edge tension too loose.
Fig. 37
Work 1 sc into the side of each of the next 22 rows of the strap base on the other side.
Work 1 sl st in ea of the next 15 sts.
(If working the Loop side of the Finishing Edge, chain 15 here – fig 38.)
Sl st in the first sl st of the round to join.
Fig. 38 – finishing Rnd 1 on the Loop Side completed
Finishing Round 2: Sl st in ea st around the finishing edge just made. For the parts of the round which are slip stitch on the previous round, work the slip stitches in on the same stitches beside the previous slip stitch placement – fig 39. Adding an extra slip stitch round keeps the edge and strap of the bag firm and helps prevent stretching from carrying weight.
Fig. 39 – close up of the stacked slip stitches on the button side of the bag (no loop)
If working a button loop, slip stitch in each chain stitch – fig 40. Sl st in the initial st of the rnd to join.
Fig. 40
Cut yarn and tie off.
Button Side
Repeat all steps for Finishing Rounds 1-2 on the unfinished edge of the other side of the bag, but omit the ch-15 loop.
Cut yarn and tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing on the button. Thread the tapestry needle with the long yarn tail and attach button to the center edge of the top of the tote.
Weave in all ends.
If you take a phone break from all your analog bag goodies and post your project on Instagram or TikTok, tag me @MoraleFiber, I’d love to see! 🙂
Just a little project update from the adorable amigurumi I mentioned in my last post – her name is Gorgonzola (thank my husband for that) and she matches perfectly with the Strawberry Spider I made last spring! The doll pattern is Lucia the Huntress by Fox in the Snow Designs, and the spider is from The Spotted Whimsy.
Her hair is handspun yarn from my stash, which I dyed myself and then spun on my wheel. I especially loved the little leaf cloak detail of this pattern, and the way the boots and headband are removable. I think a proper dolly needs clothing to take on and off, or else you don’t get to have the fun of dressing her 🙂
I decided to replace the bow & arrow set in the original pattern with a removable basket of mushrooms instead, which is a bit softer and less fussy – I’m not much for pipe cleaners and hot gluing, and I happened to have some perfect mushroom beads available as a good substitute.
I also pulled the Nikon DSLR out for this photoshoot – I’ve been using the phone camera so much lately to make posting to social media easier, but I discovered I haven’t lost my love for the vibe that a handheld lens camera can bring to the function. It’s funny to me that even a DIGITAL camera seems almost analog now!
I also uploaded this project to my Ravelry projects page. I really haven’t been keeping up with my Ravelry portfolio as it seems that Instagram is so much more demanding, but I might work on catching up some of my projects there soon! The Beekeeper’s Quilt I finished last spring definitely deserves a place among its fellows on Ravelry!
The woodpeckers are drumming, the sun is shining a bit more, and even through February gloom, the peek of spring is visible 🙂
This season I’m slowly but surely making my way through a variety of projects others have designed, including some pattern testing for a lovely friend I’ve made in the crochet community and tackling a gorgeously detailed amigurumi pattern I’ve had in my files for longer than I care to remember. I’ve also been working on re-organizing my blog and my business model, which is the main reason I’m posting today.
As of this month, some of my previously free crochet patterns will become PDF only and exclusively available in my pattern stores. This process has already started with some designs, and I’m working on making the final decisions as to which of the rest will remain as free pattern offerings on my blog.
Reasons Why
This is a decision I’ve actually been putting off for over a year – I really value offering free patterns because it contributes to the crochet community and lowers the cost of entry into the hobby, making learning the skills of crochet more accessible for everyone. However, over the last few years the model of combining PDF sales with monetizing my blog (aka – offering lots of free premium content in exchange for ad revenue) has become increasingly unsustainable due to changes in the economy and shifts in the way people engage in online content.
Additionally, I have to pay subscription fees to the WordPress hosting site to run this blog, and a certain amount of file storage comes with every tier of fees. The heavy amount of tutorial photos in my free patterns have eaten up my storage gradually over time, and I have to either reduce the amount of files or pay for a more expensive subscription with more storage. I’m opting to reduce my storage, which included deleting a lot of very old and outdated personal project posts from eons ago (who was that girl??) but to meet my limits and allow for future offerings, I also need to remove some of my more photo-heavy patterns.
This whole set of changes has given me an opportunity to do something I’ve wanted to do for a while anyway – to streamline and update my designs so that they better reflect my current tastes and abilities. I started designing and sharing crochet projects here over 10 years ago, and while clearing out some of the old I realize just how much I’ve grown and changed as a person. I’m excited to use this clearing of old energy to focus on updating and improving the work that I already have as well as creating new designs that reflect my current artistic vision. I do have a couple new crochet designs in development right now which aren’t ready to show any peeks of yet, but here’s a few projects I’ve completed recently!
I spent August pattern testing for the amazing Under Your Skein – this skirt design is called the Faelace Bloom and she has a growing collection of other gorgeous lace skirt designs in her Ravelry shop here – follow her on Instagram @underyourskein!
I also finally worked a really adorable amigurumi pattern I’ve had tucked away in my pattern stash for a long time – Lucia the Huntress from Fox in the Snow Designs:
I made her a mushroom huntress though, because I didn’t want to construct the bow & arrow part – fortunately I had a few mushroom shaped beads lying in wait for me to create her little basket. I’m going to get some better photos of her soon, so watch my Instagram for her official debut 😉
And of course, I usually make at least one Pixie Pocket Belt per year, each one as unique and different as I can manage – always inspired by wild plants and flowers, this one is called Harbinger, after the tiny white flowers called harbingers-of-spring.
I used antique doilies, handspun yarn, and fawn-print fabric for this belt as well as the usual assortment of scrap yarn and trinkets from my bead box.
Wrapping it up ❤
Balancing my intentions as an artist with the necessity of running the business side of things has always been challenging. This change in my pattern offerings is one I thought long and hard about before I began the labor-intensive process of selecting all the links, files, photos, posts and patterns over which I had to make decisions. It wasn’t easy for me and I know there are many in my audience who will find this change difficult too. I hope that I will be able to make the transition better for everyone because I really value making art with you all! My audience has always amazed and delighted me, both with creativity and with kindness – so THANK YOU all so much for understanding! And cheers to the new designs and projects we are making room for 🙂
I entered 2025 with one major crafting goal on my horizon – to finish my Beekeeper’s Quilt, a project that has taken over my WIP basket for 4 and a half years. This somewhat infamous pattern is the work of ingenious knitting designer Tiny Owl Knits, and it’s “hard to finish” status among fiber artists is what convinced me to start it.
I waffled on and off with this project for the first few years, picking it up whenever I had no other major yarn tasks or when I needed a convenient travel project, or something mindless at the end of the day. The going did seem slow, especially when I compared my smallish piles of individually completed hexipuffs to the seemingly-impossible number needed for a completed quilt (384). But I truly enjoyed this project anyway, because each little hexipuff seemed like a completed project in and of itself – they are so cute!
I finally reached the magic number in April. Having not pre-planned my colors at all, but merely grabbed whatever yarns appealed to me, I had a grueling task: lay out all 384 puffs in a way that turned all the random colors into something artistic and intentional. And then tie them all together so I could move the thing and get my floor space back!
In the end, the colors came together beautifully and the 24+ hours of tying and hiding yarn tails was worth it for a project I am so proud to add to my collection! The color design reminded me of rainbow-hued agate slices, or the splashes of color in a weather map.
I named it Weather Maps because during the layout process in the spring and early summer, weather maps were something I was seeing every day, as severe storms ripped across the Midwest landscapes. But it’s also about the weather of our lives – something that changes every day, but creates patterns across the years, a bubble of a moment and yet something that spans long lengths of time.
For me that reflects the magic of slow art – we leave a tiny part of ourselves in those small moments of creativity, woven in against the strands. Looking back at the completed web, we can recognize both a pattern of change and a thread of continuity in our lives. Projects that take an extra long time are extra special to me.
In the picture above you can see another of my long-term projects, The Stump, which I frequently sat on for cushion while I was slaving over all those yarn tails on the blanket!
This thing is SO squishy and pleasant to the touch, but since it’s summer I’ve mostly just admired it. To be honest I’m reluctant to use it as an everyday blanket, it’s so precious to me from finishing still, but as winter comes along I’m sure it will cycle into use 🙂 As most things do!
For a couple of years after completing my college degree I had fallen out of the habit of reading just for fun, but lately I have gotten my old enthusiasm back in a big way! I remember having my head buried in a book whenever the slightest opportunity arose growing up, and that love for literature stuck with me into adulthood, although the opportunities became a little harder to come by 😉
Since renewing my reading habits I find myself haunting the local book shop and hunting through the bookshelves at thrift stores, much in need of a sturdy tote bag to stash my new finds. I imagined a cute striped number JUST big enough for a few fat books and some little extras as a companion to my bookstore-café days.
Get the written pattern for the Journée Tote bag exclusively in my pattern shops via Ravelry, Etsy, or Ko-Fi now – or keep reading for more details on the design and how to get this new pattern on sale!
The Journée Tote was named after the French word for day, as I imagined it holding my books and journals during my journeys through the bookstores and cafés du jour. This sturdy bag is densely stitched in simple single crochet, using sleek mercerized cotton yarn in rich colors to create a pretty and modern piece that steals the show from flat white canvas alternatives!
With customizable strap length and optional button fastening, this bag can go anywhere from the campus to the coast and keep your belongings safe at your side – the tight stitch structure means no fabric lining is needed to keep even small objects from falling through!
The written pattern includes detailed, step-by-step instructions with accompanying tutorial photos, all numbered and referenced. Follow the exact color instructions to make the bag pictured, or customize your own colored stripe scheme to match your wardrobe – also makes a good project for using up scraps of #4 weight cotton yarn.
Materials: 3.5 mm hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Lion Brand 24/7 cotton (#4 weight, 100% mercerized cotton, 3.5 oz / 186 yd) – Café au lait: 2 skeins, Main Color – Dragonfly: less than (<) half a skein, Color 1 – Purple: < half a skein, Color 2 – Magenta: < half a skein, Color 3 – Rose: < half a skein, Color 4 – Bay Leaf: < half a skein, Color 5 – Hay Bale: < half a skein, Color 6 – Amber: < half a skein, Color 7
Scissors, tapestry needle 4-6 Locking stitch markers .5” – .75” button (optional) – be sure your tapestry needle can fit inside the hole/s in the button!
Yarn note: Some color amounts are very small and can be skipped/substituted if you want to reduce the number of skeins you have to buy! This pattern is good for using scraps, but make sure the yarns are #4 weight mercerized cotton to maintain the uniform look.
Finished Measurements: Main Body Width – 12” Main Body Length – 12” Strap Length: ~ 20”- 25” – notes for altering the length of strap are included in the instructions
Language: English (Using US crochet terminology)
Because we all need more money for novels and hot beverages, I’m offering the Journée Bag pattern PDF at an introductory sale price of just $5 exclusively through my Ko-Fi shop until March 8! I also have a few RARE actual items still for sale in there including an original Pixie Pocket Belt 🙂 You can also get this pattern on a deal by using my multi-pattern discount codes on Ravelry or Etsy – just add the code at checkout, the more patterns you buy the better the sale! Discount Codes: 15% off of 2: MF15OFF 20% off of 3-4: MF20OFF 25% off of 5-6: MF25OFF 30% off of 7+: MF30OFF
The winter months have been quiet and dreamy for me but the days are growing longer and I look forward to all the fresh new stitches I’ve got in store to share – be sure to show me what you’ve been hooking up on Instagram by tagging @moralefiber, I adore seeing all the variety of projects made from my patterns!
In the earlier days of my design ambitions I experimented with several kinds of aesthetics, from basic crochet garment staples like armwarmers and simple hats to the dippy-est of hippie drips 😉 I still draw inspiration from many places, but it’s fair to say my niche is in everything mythical and magical. Something just feels very right to me about making crochet garments that would belong in a fairy tale.
I think that’s because all my life I’ve struggled with mood disorders, and escaping into the realm of fantasy has always been my way of coping. Occasionally I’ll receive a message from someone with whom my designs strike that same chord, saying that they’ve found some peace or relief in my artwork. Each time this happens I am overjoyed and humbled – to lift someone’s spirits, to improve lives through creativity even in the smallest way – that is exactly the reason I dubbed this thing Morale Fiber 13 years ago. So without further sap, I am grateful to be able to release my latest fantastical pattern design today!
The Quetzal Hood full length PDF crochet pattern is available now in my Ravelry Store, Ko-Fi Shop, and Etsy Shop! Read on for more info about the new design or follow the links to buy the PDF – thank you in advance as paid pattern purchases are my primary source of income and allow me to keep creating! 🙂
The Quetzal Hood is a deep, dramatic, fully-scaled hood which comes to a tapered point at the back and drapes beautifully over the shoulders in the front. This stunner is perfect for festival wear and costuming and addictive to make in any number of gradient #4 weight yarn colorways!
The construction of the hood utilizes a few simple tweaks to a basic croc stitch triangle, making this a must-have accessory due to its unique and regal shape. I took a lot of time making adjustments so that this free-standing hood could be worn on its own or easily attached to another garment. The tapered pointed back and the partial rows on the front balance this hood for optimum wear.
This PDF pattern includes detailed, stitch-by-stitch written instructions with lots of tutorial photos, as well as a bonus PDF download Crocodile Stitch Primer tutorial that introduces this unique stitch and how to make it for those who have not worked with it before.
Materials Needed:
5.5 mm “I” Hook (or size needed to obtain gauge) Lion Brand Landscapes (#4, 100 g / 147 yd, 100% Acrylic) 5 skeins* * Yarn note: This project BARELY cracked 5 skeins, and so it’s possible to do it with 4 skeins if you skip a full row toward the end- this is discussed more in the pattern notes! Scissors, Tapestry Needle Optional: 8-9” tall hardback book for fringe making AND/OR 1.5” – 2” button for fastening.
Finished Measurements (One Size): Depth: 15” from tip to front opening Front Opening Height: 22” top of brim to tassel Back Seam Height: ~12”
Language: English Terminology: US crochet terminology All of my designs come with permission for the artist to sell the finished product that they made from my pattern, as long as I am credited/linked.
I hope this new design is carried with you into the best of magical realms – I know I’ll need to make several more just for my own troop of mages 😉 I can’t wait to choose the next colorway!
If you love crocodile stitch as much as I do, check out these other designs available from Morale Fiber:
Hello from the Morale Fiber Headquarters! Back in the fall of last year when Lion Brand discontinued one of their most unique and beautiful yarns, I knew I’d have to do a hunt for something adequate to replace it. Not only do I use Shawl in a Ball / Shawl in a Cake as the recommended yarn for two of my best patterns, the Priestess Coat and the Embla Vest, it’s also a go-to favorite for making some of my other designs as well. I also thought this would be a good opportunity to write another field guide – this time focusing on how to find the best yarn substitutes!
The Embla VestThe Lotus Vest (with Cardigan Sleeve Add-on)
I started searching around, using some of my yarn knowledge acquired through years and years of using substitute yarns and getting mixed results. A lot of this yarn know-how is detailed in my extensive post about crochet gauge and the different characteristics of fiber and yarn construction, and in that post I do mention Shawl in a Ball specifically. You see, it’s just such a strange yarn! Despite being a #4 weight, the yarn is relatively thin and sleek, with the fluffy fibers that cling to the cotton strand core making it lofty and soft too. It often works up much smaller in gauge than other #4 weight yarns, but it has a heaviness and drape to it because of the denser cotton core construction.
Not to mention the colors – gorgeous. Truly a yarn I will miss. I may have bought a lot of it for my stash when I realized it was in danger of disappearing forever 😉
After several fruitless trips to the big box hobby stores, my search for adequate substitutes led me to my favorite bulk yarn supplier, Ice Yarns. Their huge variety of yarns was just the hunting ground I needed, and I ordered a big bag of different skeins, ready to test them out against Shawl in a Ball. I set the big bag aside, fully intending to create a big post for this little venture. And then I procrastinated until my nice fat package from Ice Yarns had been staring balefully at me from my office corner for months. But now, I finally conquered swatching all my samples of yarn to create this how-to guide for finding the right substitute yarn!
Anyway, time to get to the nitty gritty, eh? We’ll go over the details of each yarn’s weight and construction and talk about which yarns are the best substitute for Shawl in a Ball, as well as the finer points of what makes a good yarn substitute in general! Hopefully this guide will provide some answers on how to search for the right substitute yarn no matter what you’re looking to replace 🙂
The Swatches:
Target Yarn: Shawl in a Ball (also includes Shawl in a Cake) #4 weight category 61% Cotton, 34% Acrylic, 5% Other Fiber 150 g / 440 meters OR 5.3 oz / 481 yards
For this exercise in yarn substitution, I’m searching specifically for something besides Shawl in a Ball (SIAB) to make my Priestess Coat pattern with, and so all the swatches are made using the stitch for that pattern (Tunisian Simple Stitch) and aiming for the target gauge for that project using the recommended hook size (6.5 mm). All swatches were made in one sitting for consistency and have all been blocked by pinning them out so that the stitches are fully stretched to allow accurate measurement.
Of course, all of these swatch measurements are dependent on my own unique tension when I crochet. ALL gauge measurements are going to depend on each individual crocheter’s tension, and so measurements will vary from person to person even when using the same materials. For more information on understanding how to navigate gauge, be sure to check out my Crochet Gauge guide!
When searching for potential yarns to order for this exercise, I focused on finding skeins with a comparable weight (grams or ounces) to length (meters or yards) ratio. If I found a similar ratio, I would then consider yarn structure and fiber content. Here’s how my four samples performed…
Ice Yarns Cakes Mohair
#2 weight category
20% Mohair, 20% Wool, 60% Acrylic
150 g / 810 meters OR 5.3 oz / 885 yards
I couldn’t remember if I had bought this yarn for the substitute search or not, since the weight category was #2 and I’m trying to substitute for a #4 – it seemed like I should have stayed within 1 category grade! However, I remembered after filming that my original intention WAS to double this yarn and see if a 2-stranded swatch would compare to my single strand swatch of the desired #4 weight.
Just for fun, though, I swatched it with both the single strand, and the 2-strand 🙂 In the above picture, the 2-strand is on the top of the image, and the 1 strand is on the bottom. As you can see, 2 strands makes it much bigger and the 1 strand swatch is the dinkiest of all the swatches.
Target Gauge: 7 stitches & 6 rows = 2 inches
Gauge for 1 strand swatch: 8 stitches & 8 rows = 2 inches (pictures above – too small!)
This swatch comes in too small, as predicted. At a full 2 rows OVER what it normally takes to get the correct height for the gauge, I wouldn’t attempt to use this yarn single-strand for the project. While it may be possible to size the hook up a few times to enlarge the stitches enough to meet the gauge, I’d predict that the fabric would not be dense enough with such a large hook to achieve the right look for the garment. In other words, too much space between stitches would cause the fabric to look too airy and “lacey.”
Gauge for 2 strand swatch: 7 stitches & 6 rows = 2 inches (ON TARGET! pictures below)
Doubling up the strands for this yarn worked! This is also what I predicted according to the math (the length per gram was almost double the yarn I was trying to match, therefore doubling the yarn produced similar gauge). While the gauge measurements match, the swatch of fabric itself is thicker and fuller feeling than the original SIAB swatch, so the resulting Priestess Coat would be a little denser, but it should work beautifully and be warmer than the original design, a plus for many since the SIAB Priestess was created more for style than for warmth 😉
While this yarn worked up slightly smaller than the desired measurements, I would still consider this a good substitute. To make it meet gauge, I could go up in hook size one or two steps, or I could work with my physical hand tension until I’m used to making the stitches a little less tightly, using the same hook size the pattern recommends. The fabric density and the overall feel of the fabric is a close match to the original SIAB, because of the similar strand structure, so visually this yarn performs well.
It’s important to factor in that gauge isn’t always going to translate *exactly* from swatch to project. Especially in the case of larger garments, the extra fabric weight and long stretches of the same stitch motions may end up loosening your tension FOR you. It’s not the safest gamble to depend on, but it happens! Still, I recommend getting your gauge as close as possible on the swatch, and worrying about how it translates later.
Sorry for the black on black on black. I know it’s not the most visible thing in the world, but turn your screen brightness up and bear with me, because this substitute is great! I am specifically hoping for a good substitute in black shades so I can make a witchy, raven-y Priestess Coat – and Lorena fits the bill. At just a fraction of a row too short for the gauge height, I can probably rely on either changing my manual tension to fix this, or using my knowledge of the pattern to add extra rows if/where necessary.
The fabric density of this swatch is surprising – at #2 weight I wouldn’t expect it to be such a good match. However, the yarn has lots of plies that come together to form a bouncy, rounded yarn that is also light and sleek, so the stitch structure is delicate enough to still have space between stitches while also looking substantial and not too “lacey” or flimsy.
This yarn also has good elasticity, which leads me to suspect I won’t have to worry about that extra .5 of a row gap in gauge measurement. This is because the overall stretch of the fabric, once all the weight of the project is exerted, might stretch the stitches enough that the gauge makes target. Again, it’s best not to rely solely on such an imprecise prediction, and getting exact gauge is best – but it can happen.
I’m so glad I got this measurement for Bamboo SoftAir, because it helps demonstrate exactly the point I’m trying to make here, which is that weight categories aren’t everything.The gauge reading for this #4 weight yarn is pretty much the same as for the #2 weight yarn Lorena, which we just sampled. Weird, right? Goes to show that there are really so many variables when choosing yarns such as structure, fiber content, number of plies, and all of that on TOP of each individual crafter’s tension. No wonder the number one question I get is about yarn substitutions – it can be a lot to parse through.
While the gauge reading is good, I’m not thrilled with the way the fabric looks. Compared to the SIAB, the fabric is much denser and woollier, creating an overall stiffer swatch than I want. The thickness would be great for someone looking to make a very warm coat, but one of the key design characteristics of my Priestess pattern is the way the loose structure of the stitched fabric creates a lovely swing in the diamond gore inserts at the hem. I could definitely make this coat with this yarn, but the drape would not look and move the same!
Further Tools and Resources
I have to admit that when it came to hunting the yarn for this test, I did it the hard way. I wanted to really get my hands into the process so I could explain it in detail. Fortunately there are great resources out there that allow you to skip the process of calculating the gram-to-meter-to-whatever ratio of every single skein candidate:
Yarnsub.com – This is my instant go-to database for substituting any yarn. Just type in the brand name and yarn style of the yarn you need to substitute, and the database will give you match results based on the same parameters discussed here – weight category, gauge, fiber content, ect. The results pop up by nearness of match, and you can filter by type of fiber and cost. Here’s an example search with SIAB already plugged in! One drawback of this database is that of course, there are tons of yarns not included (I’ve never seen an Ice Yarn pop up despite the fact that they often make very good dupes of popular hobby store brands). But one can’t expect every yarn in the yarniverse to be in there, so it’s still a great starting point.
Ravelry.com – Ravelry still reigns supreme in my eyes as the most useful yarn-crafting network on the internet and once you dig into their database tools it’s easy to see why. For every pattern information page, there’s a tab marked “Yarn Ideas” that will pull up all the yarns used by other stitchers who have made the project and logged it on Ravelry.
I knew before I clicked it that one of the entries under Yarn Ideas would be Lion Brand Mandala, a DK weight acrylic cake yarn. So far this is the substitute I have recommended most for this project, as I’ve gotten good feedback from crocheters saying they really liked this project in that yarn 🙂 Hobbii Universe XL was a surprise though – and I really would love to try that one too.
You can also look at the “Projects” tab to see all the projects made from a particular pattern and get a better idea of how different yarns look in the overall finished project.
Understanding the finer details of yarn planning is so essential to creating projects you’re going to love for years to come, so I hope my perspectives have been useful or at the very last, encourage asking the right questions when you’re on the hunt.
As for my search for a great yarn substitution for a Raven Priestess Coat project, I think I’ve settled on a combination: the true black Lorena for the main body of the coat, and the SIAB Cleansing Quartz for the diamond panels at the bottom. We may grab some Bamboo SoftAir for a pared-back trim (instead of the bulky fur) , although I think it would look great without any fancy trim at all so we’ll see. Check back in a few years when my procrastinating self is likely to have it done 😉
Okay so KNOWING how serious I am about the business of coziness, cuteness, and loads of texture – is it surprising that I went back to one of my fuzziest projects drafted six years ago to bring it into my collection of full-pattern crochet designs? No it isn’t.
You can get this sweet, fun new crochet pattern in my pattern stores via Ravelry, Ko-Fi, or Etsy, or keep reading for more details about the project and materials.
Meet the Batty Kitty Sweater! Flash back to the winter of 2017, the original draft of this garment was made during a dreary January, when I was beset by coursework at college and the skies seemed infinitely gray every day. This project was designed for sweet and comforting Loafing Around vibes, and only a sweater big enough to completely disappear into would do!
I wanted to combine a very wide boxy silhouette so that the sleeves were almost a bat-wing style, and which would fit around my folded legs for extra warmth on the couch of my difficult-to-heat-apartment. The large bat or cat ears are formed from folded edges on the hood, inspired by the then-recent craze for pink crochet and knit pussyhats, worn in protest during post-election 2016.
Having already named this project the Batty Kitty Sweater, I didn’t bother this time around to come up with a name with more mystery or dignity. Nope. It’s batty. It’s kitty. It’s a Batty Kitty 😀 Read on for more details about the written crochet pattern and everything you need to make some fuzzy, whimsical winterwear…
Batty Kitty Sweater
This oversized, ultra-cozy crochet sweater is designed for the best of lounge vibes, whether you’re snowed-in and snuggly or taking your tail to your favorite cat cafe. The Batty Kitty a cross between a sweater, a poncho, and a blanket – curl up easily inside the extra-wide body of the garment and add the softly thick and deep hood to get truly nestled in.
Featuring big, plush triangle ears, a large hoodie pocket in the front, and post stitch ribbing around the hems and cuffs, the Batty Kitty Sweater is an instant favorite with everyone who tries it on! Using mostly basic stitches at an intermediate level, this project is quicker to work up than you might think – thanks to the 9.0 mm crochet hook combined with #5 bulky weight fuzzy yarn 🙂
The sweater is oversized fitting a size range of Small-2XL, composed of 3 pattern grades which cover 2 sizes each – Small/Medium, Large/XL, 2X/3X. Detailed written instructions are accompanied by lots of tutorial photography and as usual I am available to help with any inquiries about the pattern 🙂
Finished Measurements: Measurements are approximate and taken with the garment laid flat. Small / Med – 18.5” shoulder to bottom, 11-12” arm, 34” body width, 16” hood height Large / XL – 20” shoulder to bottom, 12.5” arm, 38” body width, 16” hood height 2X / 3X – 22.5” shoulder to bottom, 13” arm, 42” body width , 16” hood height
Language is English using US crochet terminology
As soon as I stitched up the pink version of the Batty Kitty design, I knew immediately who I wanted to model it for me – my friend Daft Pixie, cozy kawaii streamer queen! Her space was already perfect as a backdrop with decor that’s everything cute, comforting and pink. If you love that aesthetic I highly recommend checking out her Instagram @DaftPixie where she creates cute crochet and knits, kawaii outfits, and streams relaxing games =^_^=
I have been patiently sitting on this pattern all summer actually! I began writing the pattern in January, exactly six years after the initial model was made, because… January in Indiana… makes me want fuzzy pajamas I guess. It’s dang cold and nasty here! Least favorite month (February too). Anyway, by the time the pattern was all tested and polished, the weather was nice enough to make me avoid focusing on something so warm. So I waited until September to pounce! I hope you like the new design and I hope it keeps you cozy all winter!
