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Entries by tag: tonka

Only Lovers Left Alive: June 23, 1868

True love renewed by night in an English garden: moonflower, Nottingham catchfly, Casablanca lily, evening primrose, night-blooming cereus, Queen of the Night, muted by the sepia tones of tonka, tobacco absolute, bourbon vanilla, and costus.

In bottle: one whiff and it's certainly a night-blooming garden. It gives me A Demon in My View vibes, some of those rich evening florals with a wistful and ethereal afterthought. I can smell the creaminess of the tonka and vanilla. I really like it right now, even with the deep dark florals sighing at me.

Wet on skin: cold, deep florals. There's more moonflower and lily than the rest wet on my skin, but they're quite well blended together into a beautiful medley. This is a really nice evening floral scent.

Dry: a cold, soft floral, verging on but not quite powdery. It's a very pleasant, soft scent, not quite cold lady of the night but softer, more approachable, more wistful and ethereal. There are certainly still hints of those deep sorrowful flowers but this is grief after many years, always with you but not overwhelming you.

Verdict: I'm pretty sure I have other blends like this in my collection, I should really not add any more, especially since I don't wear a lot of dark cool florals like this, but this is beautiful. I'll probably keep it around until I get my bearings back, and decide then.

The Hero Initiative: El Nuevo Puritano

The wicked wrath of moral panic: unmoving, rigid oak, dry leather, tonka, gunpowder tea, and pious olibanum with a core of perverse and furtive vanilla bean, bay leaf, clove bud, and lime.

In tester: lime, and is that a hint of clove? That makes me worried. There are definitely spicy woods here. Also relatively creamy, with the tonka and vanilla relatively seamless and only a hint.

Wet on skin: lime, woods and leather. There is a pleasant sort of powderiness that has come up, and where it's possibly coming from, I have no idea. I'm getting a bit of that tea as well. Not so bad! I was expecting the clove to amp and chase everything away, but right now I can't get any clove.

Dry: maybe clove bud is not so bad for me--this isn't too bad with the clove, although there is a hint of it, of course, which gives this blend a soft kind of spiciness. Lime, leather, and oak, and pleasantly powdery, giving it a--dare I say it?--deceptively soft feel.

Verdict: pretty nice! This blend is closer to what I'd wear than La Mano del Destino, but still not something that I'd go out of my way for-- so, pass.

Ars Moriendi: Sheol

The final burst of the soul's light and joy before passing into the depths of the earth, and into the cords of Sheol; Sheol, who is never satisfied, and who makes wide her soul to all. Vibrant gladiola, graceful stargazer lily, triumphant iris and bright heliotrope flare, and is finally made somber by heavy copal, a drop of labdanum, and tonka.

In imp: oooh, something floral but masculine to my nose. This is a deep floral, dark and heady, with a bit of spice. Spicy floral, I guess?

Wet on skin: I can't really pinpoint the spice note here. It's herbal, slightly medicinal, almost "clinical". I'd guess it's either copal or labdanum. Heady, the floral quality here is a bit boozy, right there in the background, and as it dries on my skin I'm getting an almost definitive rootbeer-y note.

Dry: O_O;; yes, this is definitely a rootbeer sort of sweetness. Dusty, almost making me sneeze, and with an incensey quality, almost resinous. I'm not entirely sure which component is the culprit here.

Verdict: well, definitely a morpher for me, the dry smell is a surprise. I do like a nice rootbeer note, but something here is rather wrong on my skin.

Ars Amatoria: Casanova

A rakish blend of leather, anise, lavender, bergamot and amber with tonka, lemon peel and lusty patchouli.
In imp: masculine! This is a wholly masculine scent to my nose, reminds me of my father, quite frankly. It’s sharp, almost piercing, green and very clean, the citrusy notes on top for me.

Wet on skin: this stays true to the imp scent to me, but the citrusy notes become even more prominent—I’m not sure which is which. Underneath everything there’s a sort of musty smell, not leather, and my untrained nose can’t pick it out or accurately describe it. It’s not a dirty smell, but it smells the opposite of the cleanness that is topmost here with me—it’s an interesting, intriguing contrast.

Dry: generally the same as the imp and wet smell, this is pretty faithful, although after a while I’m starting to get a faint metallic smell from it. I’m not sure what it is, it just strikes me as being slightly metallic. It comes and goes though, and to me it gets better the longer it is on my skin.

Verdict: it’s definitely not something I would wear; but it’s an interesting, nice scent for men and I wouldn’t mind smelling this on a guy.

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